Chang’an Small Restaurant Chapter 76 (Part 1)
T/N: Please note that cold wash(冷淘) and cold noodles(拌面) are not the same dish. Cold wash has been introduced in previous chapters so I will forgo explaining that, but cold noodles are similar, and modern chinese restaurants sometimes even serve this dish. It’s noodles served with soy sauce, sesame paste and oil, black vinegar, etc, but the sauce is usually up top and would need to be mixed into the noodles. It’s usually consumed lukewarm, or chilled. I actually recently had some here in the city I lived in, it’s quite nice!
Oh and there's an Americanized variation, you can try to order it at your local Chinese restaurant, it’s usually called sesame noodles.
Translated by Pure
Chapter 76.1 Tavern Expansion
By the midpoint of the seventh lunar month, the long stretch of rainy days had finally ceased, and the oppressive summer heat had dissipated. Although the midday sun remained warm, it was no longer ‘scorching’. The sky was a brilliant blue, dotted with a few floating white clouds, and a gentle autumn breeze wafted through the air. The delightful autumn of Chang'an had at last arrived.
Shen Shaoguang reflected on the unbearably hot summer with lingering trepidation. Who could have predicted that the extreme heat would trigger a major scandal in the city, nearly transforming a natural disaster into a man-made one? Even she, a small fish in a vast pond, had been affected. Compared to this, the previous month’s incessant rain, with its moldy clothes and damp walls, seemed inconsequential.
At least it was over now. Shen Shaoguang breathed a sigh of relief and touched the embroidery on her new autumn clothes. The next two months would be the best time in Chang'an. When the tenth lunar month arrived, hoar frost would blanket the mornings and evenings, bringing a touch of cold.
Shen Shaoguang lightly lifted her misty pine-green dress, sat down, and picked up Ming Nu, gently stroking its fur. The misty pine-green hue carried a hint of autumn’s weight, reminiscent of the colors she observed from a distance when returning from the city that afternoon. Her outer garment was a milky white, softer than Ming Nu's fur, fashioned into a narrow-sleeved Hu-style to prevent it from being easily grabbed by a certain someone again.
At the recollection of that day, Shen Shaoguang felt a tinge of resentment, thinking she had lost face for the women of the 21st century. Had her soul become humbled and conservative after so much time traveling through different eras?
However, the outing wasn't without its rewards. She savored fresh boiled beans, delectable steamed pork, the village wine with a strong kick, and most notably—the buckwheat noodle cold wash.
Buckwheat noodles washed with well water possess a subtle astringency and the distinct aroma of wheat. They have a delightful chewiness and are especially refreshing when mixed with sesame paste, soy essence, vinegar, and garlic.
Shen Shaoguang had never encountered buckwheat noodles in the grain stores of her lane. While they might be available in the West Market, she was disinclined to venture there. Instead, she opted to purchase a sack of buckwheat from the proprietress, finding this solution more convenient for the time being.
In the past two days, buckwheat noodles often graced the tables of Shen Indelible's owner and guests. They enjoyed them in various forms including, yet not limited to: cold wash, hot soup noodles, stir-fried noodles, stewed noodles, pan-fried noodles, casseroled noodles, thick noodles, thin noodles, and even cat-ear-shaped noodles.
Shao Jie happened upon this culinary feast. He took a bite of the buckwheat noodles, chewed thoughtfully, then took another mouthful before nodding repeatedly at Shen Shaoguang in approval.
He was enjoying Shredded Chicken Cold Noodles. Buckwheat noodles have a slight astringency, so when preparing them, one can either rinse them with cold water to enhance their refreshing quality and then dress them with a robust sauce containing sesame paste, garlic, vinegar, etc., or pair them with a rich and aromatic meat broth to balance out the tartness.
Shredded Chicken Cold Noodles are prepared using the latter method. First, the shredded chicken is coated with egg white and then with starch before being fried in oil. Next, it's stir-fried with lard and a touch of bean sprouts. A milky broth is added and thickened with starch. Once the sauce reaches the desired consistency, it's removed from the heat promptly. This method results in incredibly smooth and tender chicken shreds. When paired with cucumber shreds and served alongside chewy, slightly astringent buckwheat noodles, the combination creates a delightful interplay of textures and flavors on the palate.
After finishing the buckwheat noodles in the small bowl, Shao Jie wiped his mouth with a handkerchief.
Shen Shaoguang smiled knowingly and asked, "Does it meet your palate, Sir Shao?"
"Delicious!" Shao Jie praised, "It's a pity——"
A pity? Shen Shaoguang perked up, eager to hear his feedback.
"The bowls in your store are too small!"
Shen Shaoguang chuckled, and Shao Jie joined in with a laugh.
Shao Jie's praise was genuine. Coming from a wealthy background, he had never tasted buckwheat noodles prior to this. Initially finding the taste somewhat unfamiliar, he soon became enamored with their texture and flavor after a few more bites. It was a shame that the small bowl contained only a few mouthfuls.
Shen Shaoguang relished the support and praise, responding with a smile, "Sir, you've already had a hearty meal of wine, meat, and vegetables earlier. The buckwheat noodles served at the end are like a courtesan holding the final note of a song. If held just right, the last note resonates sonorously, but if prolonged, it becomes redundant."
Shao Jie applauded and burst into laughter. He couldn’t help but marvel at Miss Shen's wit—her words were not only amusing but also remarkably precise!
Shen Shaoguang continued cheerfully, "In a few days, when the autumn breeze grows cooler, Sir, feel free to visit again and try our Mutton and Mustard Green Buckwheat Noodles. It features pickled mustard greens stewed with large, tender chunks of fatty mutton—fragrant mutton broth combined with fine buckwheat noodles, crowned with a spoonful of fried fragrant cornel paste... I'll even personally serve you the largest bowl!"
Shao Jie smiled back and replied, "It's a deal then!"
Then, he sighed and continued, "Miss, you really should consider opening a large tavern in East or West Market. Shen Indelible's has gained quite a reputation; I've heard people mention its food more than once. It's time to brave the challenges and begin searching for suitable locations in the East or West Market."
Shen Shaoguang, with a leisurely afternoon at hand, savored rose tea as she engaged Shao Jie in a detailed conversation. "Our establishment's best-selling and most profitable dishes aren't the high-ticket items like Fresh Fish Mutton Soup or Eight Treasure Duck, nor the smaller sides such as Fried Orchid Beans or Tossed Coriander and Dried Beancurd—it's our mid-range offerings like Cornelian Meat and Lotus Soup. Sir, upon your return to Guixiang Delights, I recommend reviewing your detailed accounts to see if you observe a similar trend."
"I mention this not to disparage luxury and expense, but to emphasize that we have options beyond that path."
Shen Indelible's business was thriving indeed. During meal times, the seats outside were consistently occupied, yet the store had reached its developmental limits due to its location, space constraints, and customer base.
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Foods:
Shredded Chicken Cold Noodles (鸡丝拌面) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXwnpKCiGM8
Lotus Soup (芙蓉羹) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8tVTgigC48