Chang’an Small Restaurant Chapter 64 (Part 1)
Translated by Pure
Chapter 64.1 Such a Confession
Shen Shaoguang was busy peeling cattail rhizomes in the kitchen.
In her past life, she had only been aware that cattail rhizomes were highly regarded in Huai'an City and Jinan City.
Huai'an City, situated in the south, experienced cattail rhizome harvests in late spring. Among the locals, a popular culinary tradition involved making dumplings filled with a savory mixture of pork and cattail rhizomes. For seafood enthusiasts, shrimp could also be used as a stuffing alongside the cattail rhizomes. Additionally, cattail rhizomes could enhance the flavor of old hen soup. Towards the end of the cooking process, the rhizomes would be added— a final seasoning of salt would complete the dish, ensuring a rich concentration of chicken flavor alongside the tender cattail rhizomes.
Furthermore, cattail rhizomes could be paired with eel shreds in a sautéed dish, stir-fried with dried shrimp, incorporated into Lion's Head meatballs, or simply stir-fried with vegetable oil for a fresh and tender flavor profile.
Jinan City, situated in the north, typically enjoyed cattail rhizomes closer to summertime. Common home-cooked recipes often involved plain sautéing, stir-frying them with shredded pork, incorporating them into Guo Ta omelets, or coating them in batter and deep-frying them for a crispy texture. However, the most classic and renowned cooking method there was to prepare them in a dish known as ‘cattail rhizomes in milky broth’.
Perhaps Shen Shaoguang was unlucky, or perhaps it was simply a misunderstanding on her part, but every time she tried ‘cattail rhizomes in milky broth,’ the white soup base was always made with flour. The dish would also typically include ingredients like shrimp, cured ham, sea cucumbers, and more. While the broth had a beautiful color and a pleasant taste, Shen Shaoguang couldn't shake off a sense of disappointment. In her mind, the milky broth of ‘cattail rhizomes in milky broth’ should be made from stewing big bones.
Shen Shaoguang was later astonished to discover that even during the Tang Dynasty, particularly in the bustling city of Chang'an, one could find fresh and tender cattail rhizomes. Was this a providential opportunity granted by the Heavens, urging her to attempt making ‘cattail rhizomes in milky broth’ using bones as she believed it should be?
The vegetable vendor explained that the cattails were sourced from the shores of the Wei River. After being harvested, they would be wrapped in wet mud and swiftly transported to Chang'an via fast horses. Upon arrival, the vegetable vendors would collect them, wash them once more, and display them in their stalls or deliver them to the mansions of nobles and officials, taverns, or inns.
"How else could they be so fresh? They're as tender as new bamboo shoots," the vendor remarked with a smile.
Despite the significant expense, Shen Shaoguang was determined to procure a large quantity of cattail rhizomes. She even instructed the vendor to send more if additional cattails became available.
Knowing that cattail rhizomes were best enjoyed as soon as possible for optimal texture and flavor, Yu San and A’Chang diligently worked in the kitchen from early morning until noon. Shen Shaoguang insisted they take a break in the afternoon, taking over the kitchen herself to prepare the evening's ingredients. She meticulously selected the edible parts of vegetables, marinated the meat, and watched over the slow simmering stew on the stove.
A’Yuan approached Shen Shaoguang, eager to assist with peeling the cattail rhizomes. However, Shen Shaoguang gently rebuffed her, saying, "It's hot here. Now that you are sick, it’s best for you to go back and rest."
A’Yuan retreated to the backyard but soon returned, determined. "I want to help you with peeling these vegetables, Miss. I can't rest comfortably while hungry anyway, so I might as well keep busy and distract myself."
Shen Shaoguang smiled helplessly.
A’Yuan had a substantial dinner the previous night—roast mutton and a steamer of Sharpened Mutton Jade, followed by two large peaches—Shen Shaoguang intervened to prevent her from eating more. Due to the heat, she slept without covering herself with a blanket. During the fifth night watch period (3 am-5 am), she woke up multiple times in discomfort and made several trips to the toilet. By morning, her stomach still felt uneasy.
Shen Shaoguang accompanied A’Yuan to see the physician in the Lane. After examining her pulse and tongue, the physician prescribed some medication and advised, "You should stick to a light diet for a few days and skip a few meals." His words triggered a scene in Shen Shaoguang's mind, reminding her of the part where Royal Physician Wang treated Sister Qiao in the Dream of the Red Chamber.
Upon hearing the physician's advice, A’Yuan's expression immediately fell.
She had never cared for her weight.
Normally, Shen Shaoguang never paid much attention to it either, but now that A’Yuan was sick, she needed to be supervised.
For lunch, Shen Shaoguang prepared millet congee specifically for A’Yuan. Taking into account her hefty appetite, Shen Shaoguang also added a small bowl of egg custard. However, compared to A’Yuan's seemingly bottomless stomach, this serving seemed utterly insufficient.
A’Yuan cast a glance at Yu San, who was enjoying the cumin mutton with a hint of envy, while Yu San seemed to relish the dish more with each bite. Across the table, A’Chang was indulging in Cornelian Meat sandwiched between a steamed flat cake; he was relishing every juicy bite. Catching A’Yuan's gaze, A’Chang discreetly shifted his position, turning his back halfway to her.
A’Yuan: "..." Miss is truly the only sincere one!
Shen Shaoguang enjoyed a meal of shredded pork with cattail rhizomes and cowcumbers with eggs, accompanied by the same millet congee she had served to A’Yuan.
Even though it was just cattail rhizomes stir-fried with a bit of shredded pork, A’Yuan found it delightful and looked at Shen Shaoguang with eager anticipation, reaching out, ready to pick a few bites to taste.
Yu San coughed loudly.
A’Yuan reluctantly set down her chopsticks, her disappointment evident.
With empathy, Shen Shaoguang offered words of solace. "Taking care of yourself now will prevent future complications and preserve your digestive health. Then, even if you desire meat and fish, you won’t be able to enjoy them. Just endure for a couple more days. Once you're fully recovered, I'll roast a leg of lamb for you."
A’Yuan concurred with a slight pout.
Deprived of a hearty lunch, A’Yuan found herself even hungrier as the mid-afternoon approached. As she helped her Miss peel and wash the cattail rhizomes for dinner, A’Yuan couldn't help but inhale the enticing aroma of the milky broth simmering on the stove. "During lunch, the guests were all impressed by the cattail rhizomes in milky broth you made, Miss. They thought it looked light, but were surprised by its rich flavor."
Shen Shaoguang felt a sense of pride. The cattail rhizomes in milky broth served during lunch had proven to be a success. In the milky-white broth, the tender green cattail rhizomes were delicately adorned with small pieces of cured meat. Its appearance was captivating, and the soup boasted a fresh and savory flavor, while the cattail rhizomes remained tender and fresh. It was very much delightful—just a bit too warm to fully savor during the noon heat. Hence, she planned to indulge in another two bowls during dinner.
A’Yuan also beamed with a sense of achievement. "But little did they know, the broth was simmered with pork, aged chicken, and duck bones! Not to mention cattail rhizomes, even if it had been straw sandals, it would still taste delicious! If the soup had merely been boiling water thickened with starch, they would have smashed the plates in protest."
Lin Yan, who had just stepped into the tavern, happened to overhear the last couple words of conversation in the kitchen. He couldn't help but smile. Truly ‘like servant, like master’.
Shen Shaoguang's laughter filled the kitchen as she explained, "Some individuals prefer the natural flavor of boiled vegetables—often, it's the nobility and high-ranking officials seeking a palate cleanser after indulging in rich or heavily sweet dishes. Take our regular diner, Deputy Magistrate Lin, for instance. This exemplifies the notion that 'pinnacle of flavor lies in simplicity[1]'..." And quite in good taste, too.
As she pondered the whims of the wealthy, Shen Shaoguang couldn't help but recall a scene from the movie 'The Dream Factory[2]', where a wealthy character was sent to a mountain village and proceeded to devour all the chickens there. If Deputy Magistrate Lin were to find himself in a similar situation, could he maintain his current lofty and elegant demeanor?
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.
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Footnote:
[1] The pinnacle of flavor lies in simplicity (大味必淡) - All flavors, regardless of their extravagance or diversity, originate from a base of no flavor or mild flavor. This implies that mild flavor is the purest, most fundamental, and unifying taste. Mastery involves fully understanding this concept; masters come to appreciate mild taste as the true pinnacle of flavors.
The full phrase is '大道至簡，大味必淡', which has been translated as 'The ultimate truth shall be of ultimate simplicity' or 'Power could afford no arbitrariness'. The second part can be viewed as a parallel idea or an extension/explanation of the first. In the same vein, just as all flavors are rooted in no flavor, all disciplines (such as martial arts) are based on the most basic, simple techniques. Upon reaching the highest level of a skill, one can perceive and utilize this unity. A simple technique can be employed as effectively as a complex one, as it embodies the essence of the skill and incorporates the best aspects of all other techniques.
Credit: Thank you kuonji from CG discord for helping on this one 😊
[2] The Dream Factory (甲方乙方) - is a 1997 Chinese comedy film directed by Feng Xiaogang. It was one of the first notable and successful Chinese New Year films made in mainland China. The plot goes: Four friends in Beijing—three men and a woman—start a company which specializes in fulfilling their clients' dreams. Enacting their wildest fantasies, they encounter many oddball clients along the way.
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Dream_Factory_(film)
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Foods:
Guo Ta omelet (锅塌) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UB5rg62HnFg
cattail rhizomes in milky broth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6oIOch4FBMQ
And various other cattail rhizomes dishes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtR4NiZwTs4
