Chang’an Small Restaurant Chapter 63 (Part 1)
Translated by Pure
Chapter 63.1 The Bizarre Bamboo Mat
The recent days had brought sweltering temperatures to new heights. While daytime remained bearable, the nighttime offered no respite as the wind ceased to blow. The incessant chirping of cicadas outside seemed amplified in the stillness of the night. Shen Shaoguang found herself plagued by insomnia, only managing to drift off to sleep during the late hours of zi-shi (11pm-1am). Upon awakening early in the morning, she discovered her pillow drenched in sweat, her back adhering uncomfortably to the woven mat beneath, her entire body feeling sticky. Alas, why was this summer proving to be so arduous?
Upon rising, Shen Shaoguang quenched her thirst with a refreshing gulp of cold water, instantly feeling relief wash over her. It was peculiar indeed. Even during her tenure at the Lateral Courts, she had never experienced insomnia during the summer months. Despite the cramped quarters and perpetual humidity, slumber had always come easily. Similarly, during her stay at Guangming Nunnery last year, the sauna-like conditions hadn't interfered with her sleep. This year, residing in her own abode with windows draped in gauze and clad in lightweight spaghetti-strap pajamas, she couldn't fathom why she struggled to find rest.
Shen Shaoguang chuckled to herself with a touch of self-deprecating humor, musing that this was likely what they called ‘sleeping in adversity and waking to comfort[1].’
Not wanting to disturb A’Yuan, who was still sound asleep, Shen Shaoguang quietly gathered the soiled woven mat, pillow cover, and pajamas, heading to the well to clean them. The woven mat and pillow cover were washed and left to dry in the courtyard, while the pajamas were taken back to her room to dry, mindful of the time constraints at hand.
After tending to her dental hygiene, cleansing her face, and washing her hair, Shen Shaoguang finally felt rejuvenated. She loosely gathered her hair into a simple style and made her way to the front shop to see what Yu San was preparing for breakfast.
Noticing Shen Shaoguang's tired eyes, Yu San furrowed his brow. "Did you sneak out to pilfer something during the night?"
Shen Shaoguang maintained her innocent expression. It's not as if I intended for this to happen. Do you think being a national treasure is so effortless?
As A’Yuan joined them after her own wash-up, A’Chang returned with tofu pudding from the Tofu Shop. Meanwhile, Yu San had just finished toasting her small sesame biscuit. Shen Shaoguang assisted by retrieving the freshly boiled eggs and slicing some salted vegetables into shreds. Yu San, on the other hand, prepared a variety of toppings: minced garlic, cornel dogwood paste, sesame paste, garlic chive flower sauce, and minced coriander, all to accompany the tofu pudding. This comprised the entirety of today’s breakfast for the members of Shen Indelible.
Shen Shaoguang understood the concept of tofu pudding but lacked the expertise to prepare it herself. She had explained all of her knowledge to Missus Qiu, and after a few trials, they had managed to produce a satisfactory final product.
"There's quite a crowd lining up to buy this tofu pudding," remarked A’Chang with a chuckle. "But I don't have to wait—I get served first by Missus Qiu," he added, a hint of pride evident in his tone.
Shen Shaoguang smiled knowingly. Indeed, children often shared the same common foibles, such as a fondness for privilege, no matter how small.
Recognizing her own flaws, Shen Shaoguang harbored no lofty expectations of those around her. With a gentle smile, she advised, "It's best not to do this again. Others have been waiting patiently to be served."
A’Chang obediently nodded in agreement, flashing a smile.
Shen Shaoguang poured some of the store's day-old bone broth over the tofu pudding, then added a dash of minced garlic, sesame paste, cornel dogwood paste, and the like. Finally, she sprinkled a spoonful of minced coriander over the dish. The result was a refreshing, silky, and utterly delicious concoction.
Perhaps the tofu pudding acted as a catalyst for her appetite, as Shen Shaoguang, initially reluctant to eat, found herself devouring an egg before indulging in one of Princess Yu San's freshly baked sesame biscuits alongside the tofu pudding. The petite biscuit, no larger than the palm of a hand, was generously filled with sesame paste and seasoned with salt and pepper, then rolled up and toasted until golden brown and delightfully crispy.
Despite her recent lack of restful sleep, Shen Shaoguang's youthfulness and resilience shone through, as she felt rejuvenated and full of energy after indulging in a hearty home-cooked breakfast. As per usual, she enlisted A’Yuan and A’Chang to accompany her in fetching water from the well, scrubbing the tables and chairs, tidying up the shop, inspecting the vegetables delivered by vendors, and assisting Princess Yu San in preparing ingredients. Their bustling activities kept them occupied for more than two hours.
Mid-morning brought the arrival of the fishmonger. And instead of cicadas, he surprised Shen Shaoguang by presenting a hefty softshell turtle, weighing over a kilogram.
Aiyo, this is something new.
The fish seller beamed with pride as he recounted his tale. "It was right under the big willow tree. At first, I didn't realize what it was, but when it made a move, I finally spotted it—the crafty little rascal! It was on the verge of making a getaway when I managed to nab it with a basket. Thankfully, we were by the riverbank. The water was shallow, and it got snagged by some tree roots. If it had been in deeper waters, it would have slipped through my grasp."
There are numerous ways to prepare softshell turtles, ranging from stewing them in soup, simmer-frying, stir-frying with chicken, or braising with pork knuckles. Alternatively, one could steam them with mutton tallow and salted duck egg yolk, a method reminiscent of palace cuisine, or even hollow out the intestines and stuff them with meat and mushrooms.
However, the most barbaric and inhumane technique Shen Shaoguang had ever heard of involved placing the turtle on a scorching iron plate and allowing it to crawl, while periodically offering it water infused with seasonings to drink, all the while slowly roasting it alive. It was rumored that turtles prepared in this manner were unparalleled in taste, but Shen Shaoguang couldn't help but feel that the individual who devised such a method must have been a disciplining official in the kitchen—or perhaps even a cook from the disciplining office.
Shen Shaoguang, being an ordinary person, chose to stew the softshell turtle with chicken. Opting for the most straightforward method, she began by heating a little oil in the pot and sautéing the onion and ginger. Next, she added the chicken and stir-fried it briefly before pouring in a splash of yellow wine and water. Bringing the mixture to a boil over high heat, she allowed it to simmer for a while, skimming off any foam that formed on the surface until the soup turned milky white. Then, she added the pre-cut pieces of softshell turtle and placed them in a small cloth bag along with Sichuan peppercorns and other seasonings, letting it all simmer slowly to infuse the flavors.
It was already too late to prepare the stew for noon, and the limited quantity made it unsuitable for entertaining guests. Thus, Shen Shaoguang decided to stew it in the afternoon instead, allowing them to savor it during the cool evening—a perfect time to enjoy soup and meat.
However, while Shen Shaoguang made the decision, it was still Yu San who handled the actual preparation. After all, Shen Shaoguang couldn't bring herself to do the task of killing a live turtle.
A’Yuan, having never tasted softshelled turtle before, found herself unable to resist the enticing aroma emanating from the kitchen. She couldn't sit still and kept wandering over to sneak a peek.
With no one else around in the quiet afternoon, Yu San and A’Chang were taking a break in the backyard. Despite Shen Shaoguang's desire to take a nap, A’Yuan's restless movements made it difficult for her to drift off to sleep.
Shen Shaoguang raised her hand and beckoned her over, and A’Yuan trotted over.
Shen Shaoguang leisurely rested her head on one hand while gently swaying the fan with the other, inviting A’Yuan to share the breeze. "When we have enough money in the future," she mused, "we'll build a spacious house by the banks of the Wei River. I'll carry a fishing rod and a basket and head out to fish on the river every day. Softshell turtles are particularly fond of meat, so we'll bring along some chicken tripe, pork liver, and other goodies. I'm sure we'll catch one from time to time, and I'll feed you as much as you like."
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Footnote:
[1] ‘Sleeping in adversity and waking to comfort’ - Is a twist to something once said by Mencius, a Confucian philosopher. The original is ‘生于忧患，死于安乐’, a profound Chinese proverb that encapsulates the essence of human existence and the journey of personal growth. Translated as "Born in adversity, died in comfort," this proverb conveys the idea that life often begins with challenges and hardships but can eventually lead to a state of tranquility and ease.
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Foods:
Sesame Biscuits 芝麻饼 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8P5TlolEPL0&t=32s
Savory Tofu Pudding 豆腐脑 - I believe it’s important to make a note here that not all tofu pudding is served savory, it depends on the region of china. My hometown usually makes this sweet. As for the texture, think super soft silky tofu, a little softer than asian flan. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAunIO0qVPg
Stewed Chicken with Softshell Turtle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAl9ukPJzUY