Chang’an Small Restaurant Chapter 52 (Part 1)
Translated by Pure
Chapter 52.1 Spur of Spinach
After the Double Third Festival, spring burst forth in all its glory. Gone were the mild breezes, replaced by an abundance of vibrant greenery, radiant sunshine, the delightful melodies of birds every morning, a plethora of spring outings and banquets, and occasional snippets of gossip about the affairs of men and women.
Behind the counter, Shen Shaoguang diligently balanced the accounts, all the while catching tidbits of conversation from diners nearby.
"That man named Zhao has been paralyzed for a year now, practically resembling the dead, with only the ability to breathe. Now, his wife is pregnant, insisting that she met him in a dream. She insists that the Heavens has shown mercy, blessing her with this child. The Zhao Residence is now joyfully distributing wedding fruits and red-painted eggs everywhere. Truly... the world's morals are deteriorating day by day," a diner lamented, shaking his head, taking a sip of his wine.
"You don't comprehend the situation. The Zhao Residence possesses substantial family wealth, yet there's no legitimate heir to inherit it. Even if the Elder Madam and Master are aware, they choose to overlook it. Thankfully, the child born from her can be considered as their own descendant; this way they do not provide a cheap advantage to a branch family," the drinking companion explained.
"The side branch still maintains a bloodline connected to the family! Isn't that more preferable to an illegitimate offspring with a mother but no father? The merchant families lack decorum and have no regard for rules!"
His drinking companion laughed. "Merchant households may lack rules, but do you believe others also adhere to strict principles? I heard a rumor about the Princess Imperial of fuhui—" The drinking companion stopped abruptly, realizing his error, chuckled awkwardly a few times, and decided to focus on his drink instead.
Not long after the two of them stopped talking, Sir Pei, who was somewhat involved with Princess Imperial of fuhui, and his friend Deputy Magistrate Lin walked in.
She frequently crossed paths with Deputy Magistrate Lin, so there was nothing to think of, but with the somewhat pallid-looking Sir Pei in comparison, Deputy Magistrate Lin looked more vibrant than usual. Shen Shaoguang chuckled inwardly. Her filter intensity on a person seems to positively correlate with the amount of tip they give!
Guiding them to a window-side table, Shen Shaoguang positioned them where they could enjoy the vibrant spring scenery outside. The elms and willows along the roadside were the young brides in the setting sun[1]... More importantly, this seating choice provided a sufficient distance from the two gossip mongers, avoiding any potential awkwardness.
Shen Shaoguang inquired with a smile, "Sir Lin, do you still want a serving of bamboo shoots sautéed with meat and chicken slices with mountain mushrooms? The spinach today is exceptionally tender—how about a serving of two-color fish balls made with spinach juice?"
Upon mentioning spinach, Lin Yan briefly halted before offering a subtle smile and agreeing, "Okay."
Pei Fei arched his eyebrows, observing the amiable Lin Yan and then glancing at the smiling Miss Shen. Heh...
"And your preference, Sir Pei?" Shen Shaoguang inquired with a smile.
Pei Fei lowered his head to peruse the menu and noticed significant changes. The extensive list of hot pot dishes now occupied only two rows on the paper, with the spotlight on vegetable stir-fries and fresh seasonal vegetables. The Spring Platter had its own prominent section, taking up an entire line.
Observing Pei Fei eyeing the Spring Platter, Shen Shaoguang, playing the role of a responsible shopkeeper, offered a cautionary note. She reminded him that consuming the Spring Platter at night might not be ideal for health, and indulging to the point of indigestion was not an uncommon occurrence in their tavern. Therefore, every order of the Spring Platter came with a complimentary Spleen and Stomach supplement pill to aid digestion.
Pei Fei chuckled, and even Lin Yan's lips curved into a slight smile.
Aware that the main character in a comic dialogue shouldn't be laughing, Shen Shaoguang continued and proposed that he consider ordering some seasonal vegetable stir-fries, "Unlike stews, these stir-fries undergo a brief and gentle encounter with the pot and spatula, resulting in a dish that is fresh, crisp, and tender—perfect for the current dining season."
Fresh, crisp, and tender... Her words truly ignited his appetite. Pei Fei scrutinized the menu, contemplating ordering more dishes featuring spinach. However, after observing Lin Yan quietly sipping tea, he changed his mind and opted for a variety of meat and vegetarian dishes such as scrambled eggs with celery, quick-fried cured meat with scallions, sautéed eel shreds, and vinegar stir-fried bean sprouts.
Shen Shaoguang retrieved the menu and assured them, "Alright, your order will be ready shortly."
Taking the order to the kitchen, Shen Shaoguang handed it over to Yu San. She observed A’Chang skillfully lighting the fire, A’Yuan expertly chopping and preparing vegetables, and Yu San working diligently by the stove. Their synchronized teamwork was impressive, prompting her to step back and return behind the counter.
As the spring season emerged, the tavern transitioned from the heartiness of stews and steamed dishes to lighter, more refreshing options. With a focus on crispy and tender flavors, the Spring Platter and a variety of light spring stir-fries became the main attractions on the menu.
During this dynasty, prevalent cooking techniques included steaming, boiling, roasting, and stewing. While 'stir-frying,' which would become the dominant method in later generations, did make an appearance, it wasn't widely embraced. The primary impediments were the constraints of the era – not everyone possessed a suitable iron pan, and the correct choice of cooking oil was also a concern.
However, as a tavern, such constraints were nonexistent. Shen Shaoguang had commissioned pots and pans of various sizes since the establishment of her restaurant, and a variety of vegetable and animal oils were readily available. As the saying goes, ‘An adept worker ensures their success by first honing their tools.’
Stir-frying proved to be an especially suitable cooking method for taverns: it required a short cooking time, allowing for quick serving of dishes; the vegetables retained their crispness and tenderness while displaying vibrant colors, eliminating the need for intricate plate arrangements; and with a diverse range of meats and vegetables, the possibilities for culinary variations were endless.
Stir-fry dishes were available in autumn and winter, but their placement on the menu wasn’t as pronounced. With the arrival of spring and the updated menu, there's a noticeable increase in the number of people ordering stir-fry dishes. Seasonal vegetable stir-fries, in particular, are gaining popularity among diners, including Deputy Magistrate Lin.
Lately, Deputy Magistrate Lin frequented their tavern often opting for stir-fry dishes, with his preferred choice being stir-fried springtime bamboo shoots with pork.
The delightful combination of fresh and tender bamboo shoots with carefully fried shredded pork belly created a delicious symphony of a dish. However, Shen Shaoguang couldn't help but wonder if Deputy Magistrate Lin's fondness for bamboo shoots was somehow connected to the sentiments of the literati.
Didn’t the great Scholar Su, known as the later dynasty's food enthusiast Dongpo, once remarked, "A meal can lack meat, but never bamboo. Without meat, one’s form becomes lean, and without bamboo, one’s manners a’mean. While thinness can be remedied, the vulgarity of scholars cannot be cured.[2]" In jest, his friend replied, "But a taste for bitter bamboo shoots, a black gauze hat in exchange!" See?! See?! The desire for bamboo shoots could lead one to forsake their officialdom position!
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Footnotes:
[1] the young brides in the setting sun - This is taken from a poem titled ‘ Saying Good-bye to Cambridge Again’ by Xu Zhimo. He was a Chinese romantic poet and writer of modern Chinese poetry who strove to loosen Chinese poetry from its traditional forms and to reshape it under the influences of Western poetry and the vernacular Chinese language.
Read the full poem here- http://www.china.org.cn/learning_english/2011-03/18/content_22169581.htm
[2] Su Shi, also known as Su Dongpo, held a deep admiration for pork, but also bamboo. He considered it a plant steeped in culture (recall the four noble plants). Following his exile for political transgressions, Su Shi was rumored to frequent the bamboo forest regularly. While some claimed it was a means to find solace in the midst of demotion and distress, others couldn't shake the suspicion that his visits were intentional, driven by a desire to harvest bamboo shoots. This suspicion arose due to Su Shi's extensive collection of poems and essays dedicated to the bamboo shoots.
A meal can lack meat, but never bamboo
Without meat, one’s form becomes lean,
Without bamboo, one’s manners a’mean.
While thinness in frame can be remedied,
The vulgarity of scholars cannot be cured.
Foods:
Two-color fish balls https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCCo-EOCzCs
quick-fried cured meat with scallions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIrpPlHwKf0
sautéed eel shreds https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUYjoRRQ2fA
vinegar stir-fried bean sprouts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQMOTeHww2w
