Chang’an Small Restaurant Chapter 47 (Part 1)
Translated by Pure
Chapter 47.1 Moon Hung on the Tips of Willow Trees
In the first month of the year, the city bustled with a medley of festivals. Just two days after Renri, Lichun[1] made its appearance, heralding the upcoming Lantern Festival that promised to keep the city awake for three exhilarating nights.
During Lichun, there was a cherished tradition: the indulgence in Spring Platter. The so-called Spring Platter featured an ensemble of spring vegetables encased in flatbread.
In this era when there were no greenhouse vegetables readily available and with the harsh chill of winter still clung to the air, the term ‘spring vegetables’ carried more of a symbolic weight. The breads were usually filled with the hardy survivors of winter—radishes, napa cabbage, and green onions. Even within the imperial palace, where extravagance knew no bounds, the additional choices were still modest, featuring the likes of celery, scallion, and the garlic chives.
The arrival of out-of-season vegetables was nothing short of a mood-lifter. Much like bestowing refreshing iced buttermilk during the scorching summers, the Emperor made it a tradition to gift Spring Platters to his nearest kin and esteemed Grand Chancellors at the onset of spring. It was a heartfelt gesture, a testament to his affection.
A stroke of fortuity graced Imperial Censor Zhou Feng when his son entered the world on Lichun. In a delightful coincidence, the Emperor bestowed a Spring Platter upon the newborn. In light of this serendipity, Zhou Feng decided to christen his son A'Pan (Platter). This choice of name was reminiscent of Confucius, who had named his own son 'Carp'[2].
In the grandeur of the palace, the Spring Platters were more than mere gifts; they were meticulously crafted works of culinary art. Each vegetable was painstakingly julienned, arranging a vibrant tapestry of reds, whites, greens, and yellows in separate stacks. Accompanying this visual feast were an array of sauces—soybean, garlic chive flower, and savory meat—each with its distinctive flavor profile. A dedicated plate held the spring flatbreads, a departure from the modern spring pancakes. These flatbreads were a delectable concoction of flour paste, eggs, a hint of salt, and the fragrance of sesame oil, rendering them both aromatic and irresistibly tender to the bite.
Back in the days when she frequented the Lateral Courts' dining hall, Shen Shaoguang could easily polish off three substantial spring flatbreads, all accompanied by a hearty bowl of minced mutton soup.
In the present, while the bounty of off-season vegetables eluded her, Shen Shaoguang no longer felt restricted in her movements. She endeavored to replicate the spring pancakes of later generations, cleverly supplementing them with meat to make up for the lack of greens.
First, let's tackle the wrap. Though crafting pancake wrappings was speedier, nothing quite matched the chewy texture of unleavened flatbreads for cradling the vibrant fillings. The dough, prepared with hot water, was generously anointed with oil, rolled into delicate, wafer-thin circles, and then gently cooked on a flat griddle over low heat.
The fillings called for minimal fuss. The tougher outer layers of the radishes, napa cabbage, and green onions were discarded, leaving behind only the tender portions, which were then deftly sliced into fine strips. Cooked elements included scrambled eggs, stir-fried bean sprouts with vermicelli, and sautéed shredded tofu, among others.
As for the meats, there's an array of options to choose from: the classic Pork Knuckle in Brown Braising Sauce, pork tripe, Smoked Chicken, Spiced Meat, and even pig ears and pig faces. Each meticulously prepared, they're all expertly shredded and artfully arranged on the platter. Diners can help themselves to their favorites.
In the act of indulging, one takes hold of two pieces of the delectable flatbread, skillfully spreads a layer of sauce, adds a generous helping of shredded green onions, radishes, assorted meats, eggs, and bean sprouts, all before rolling it up into a neat package, ready to be savored in satisfying big mouthfuls.
The introduction of this Spring Platter was met with immediate enthusiasm. The spread on the table was a vibrant display of colors and aromas. For ordinary folks, indulging in such an exquisite and opulent Spring Platter was an unprecedented experience. What's more, it wasn't exorbitantly priced, especially with the availability of affordable pork. But the real draw was its exceptional taste. What once was a seasonal treat had now evolved into a bona fide delicacy.
From the moment it debuted on the first day of Lichun, this Spring Platter was met with hot demand. Even after Lichun, word continued to spread, drawing in more and more curious patrons. Initially, they savored the delicacy right there in the store. However, as its popularity soared, an increasing number of customers opted for takeout or delivery services. The pursuit for this delectable Spring Platter showed no signs of waning. It remained a hot item all the way through the Lantern Festival, which, although a bit untimely, left Shen Shaoguang optimistic that the customers would keep pouring in. After all, the second and third lunar months marked the arrival of genuine spring vegetables, promising an even more delectable spring pancake experience.
…
"In the coming months, when napa cabbage and radishes are out of season, we'll get creative. Stir-fried eggs and chives, spinach with cellophane noodles, and shredded pork shepherd's purse sauté… If we also add some thorny cowcumbers with the flowers still attached to the top, such spring pancakes..." Shen Shaoguang's hands moved skillfully, shaping Tangyuan as she brainstormed with A’Yuan.
A’Yuan swallowed and continued her words, "such spring pancakes, I could eat eight of!"
Shen Shaoguang: "..."
Shen Shaoguang cast a subtle glance at A’Yuan's waist. "A’Yuan, have you ever heard the saying, 'If you don't shed a few pounds during the second, third, and fourth lunar months, the next three months will be miserable to come'?"
A’Yuan simply shook her head. "No!"
A chuckle sounded from behind. Without even needing to turn around, Shen Shaoguang recognized it as Yu San’s.
A’Yuan contemplated for a moment, "I'll consider dieting after I've savored the Spring Platter with spinach and cowcumbers."
Shen Shaoguang nodded. As long as there’s a set date.
A cool voice behind them said, "When cowcumbers are available, you will be eating the 'Summer Platter'. I'm afraid you will be miserable during those next three months."
A’Yuan shot an irritated glance at Yu San, but opted to remain silent.
In truth, it was Shen Shaoguang who misspoke. In the modern era, cucumbers were readily available. Every time she indulged in spring pancakes, cucumbers were a common inclusion.
Shen Shaoguang turned around and silenced Yu San with a stern gaze before launching into a lighthearted anecdote to lift A’Yuan's spirits. "You know, cowcumbers are actually available in spring, but they're quite rare. There's a story from a previous dynasty that goes like this—"
At the mention of a "previous dynasty," it was a signal that a tale was about to unfold. A’Yuan and A’Chang perked up to listen, and even Yu San slowed his pace.
"In one freezing cold year on New Year's Day, the Emperor had an unusual craving for cowcumbers. He dispatched his eunuch to find some, but in such chilly weather, where could he possibly find them? Miraculously, he stumbled upon a vendor in the East Market who was selling two cowcumbers. The eunuch was elated and asked for the price. The vendor replied, 'Fifty taels of silver for one, and a hundred for two.'"
A’Yuan and A’Chang opened their mouths wide in shock.
"The eunuch deemed it too pricey. In the summer, they could fetch several for just two wen. The vendor responded, 'If it's too dear, you needn't purchase it. I'll indulge myself.' And true to his word, he took a hearty bite of one of the cowcumbers."
A’Yuan and A’Chang's jaws dropped even further.
A’Chang couldn't help but mutter, "How could he eat something worth fifty taels of silver just like that..."
"The eunuch, anxious that the vendor might devour the last one, hurriedly fetched his money to make the purchase. To his surprise, the vendor had raised the price for the remaining cowcumber to one hundred taels."
Yu San couldn't help but smirk. He had anticipated their Miss's storytelling flair. Sure enough…
"The eunuch considered it too expensive, prompting the vendor to say, 'If it's too dear—' Hearing this, the eunuch promptly handed over the money and secured the sole remaining cowcumber."
A’Yuan and A’Chang burst into laughter, and even Yu San couldn't help but chuckle before returning his focus to crafting the intricate Silk Cage Pastries.
At this time, the Shangyuan Festival was yet to be known as the Lantern Festival that would later reign supreme in the modern era. Everyone also ate different things in celebration. The feasts were an eclectic mix, featuring dishes like meat porridge, Silkworm Noodles, Silk Cage Pastries, Fire Moths, Jade Beam rice cakes, oil(?), and more. The spread was a riot of stewed porridges, steamed cakes, and fried pastries; very much an array of delectable chaos.
Given the already splendid disorder, there was no harm in adding a little more extravagance. Tangyuan was a must-have, an emblem of festivity. Shen Shaoguang made the most classic tangyuan, with black sesame filling, and recommended it to all her Lantern Festival diners.
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The author has something to say:
Shen Shaoguang's spring pancakes were inspired by Mr. Liang Shiqiu's <Thin Flat Cakes(薄饼)>. While researching winter and spring vegetables and the Spring Platter in the Tang Dynasty, I found some information, but it may not be entirely accurate. I've combined these findings with my own imagination. Thus, dear readers, please enjoy the story without getting too caught up in historical accuracy.
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Translator’s Note:
Many of the Lantern Festival foods mentioned do not have images or detailed descriptions due to limited historical references. They briefly appear in historical records.
Silk Cage Pastries(丝笼饼): Mentioned briefly by Song Dynasty’s Pang Yuanying in his work <文昌杂录>.
Silkworm Noodles (面蚕): Despite the name, it has nothing to do with silkworms. The main ingredients are mung bean powder, glutinous rice, flour, and sugar. It's usually cooked with various meats in a soup. According to historical records, Silkworm Noodles have a soft, elastic texture and absorb the aroma of the meat, making the taste richer due to the meat broth.
Fire Moths (火蛾儿): Not much information could be found about this dish other than the fact that it’s a fried pastry. Perhaps with a filling, like 咸煎饼.
Jade Beam rice cakes: Previously mentioned in chapter 5. These are essentially ancient style rice cakes made of rice flour or wheat flour.
And the oil with the (?) was directly translated from the raws.
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Footnotes:
[1] Lichun - traditionally signifies the beginning of spring. Chinese New Year is celebrated around this time. Farmers often celebrate the beginning of Lichun with special village events, offerings to the Taoist and Buddhist gods and ceremonies for a blissful and prosperous new year. People eat chūnbǐng (春餅) on this day, especially in northern China.
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lichun
[2] Confucius’ son named 'Carp' - One day in the 10th year of the reign of Duke Zhao of Lu state, Confucius’ son was born. The Duke, who had been admiring Confucius, bestowed a big carp on him for congratulation. When Confucius received the carp, he gratefully thought it was a great honor from the Duke. So, he immediately gave his son the last name Li (it means carp in Chinese), and courtesy name Boyu (yu means fish in Chinese). Then he worshiped the carp as a spiritual encouragement.
Source: http://www.chinakongzi.org/English/Sacred/202105/t20210526_517318.htm
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Foods:
Spring Platter (春盘) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-u3SyWxeXE
Soybean Sauce / Noodle Sauce (面酱) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtcDM8lnFFk
garlic chive flower sauce (韭花酱) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6sUxIJ9jMU
savory meat sauce (肉酱) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-bexVlEXxg
modern spring pancakes (春饼) - a traditional Chinese food unique to the northern regions. The pancake is prepared by rubbing oil between two thin layers of leavened dough; after steaming, the pancake can be peeled apart to add fillings. Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring_pancake
stir-fried bean sprouts with vermicelli (豆芽粉丝) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKFh_i37h_8
Pork Knuckle in Brown Braising Sauce https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4g48Dt1Jq0
Spiced Meat (醬肉) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my8tWPTmxgM
Stir-fried eggs and chives https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEw_q4h7sbY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6in7ARzHVhQ
spinach with cellophane noodles (菠菜炒粉) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XjXZUXcpoQ
shredded pork shepherd's purse sauté https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JldV5sPieuA
Tangyuan (汤圆) - a traditional Chinese dessert made of glutinous rice shaped into balls that are served in a hot broth or syrup. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-pop_dGsgc