Chang’an Small Restaurant Chapter 46
Certain delicacies mentioned in this chapter couldn’t be found even through research, prompting me to include the original raws. I've retained more literal names as my understanding was limited. Apologies in advance for any confusion, and if anyone has insights, your input would be greatly appreciated!
Translated by Pure
Chapter 46 Business Flourishing Once Again
On the second day of the new year, Shen Shaoguang embarked on a trip to Guangming Nunnery to spend a memorable half-day in the company of the Senior Buddhist Nun Yuanjue.
Senior Buddhist Nun Yuanjue had been diligently working on her manuscript, <The Classic of Noodle>. Initially focused on hand-pulled-dough noodles, the scope of her work had now expanded to encompass a wide array of flour-based delicacies. Within the pages of her manuscript, Shen Shaoguang found herself immersed in a world of culinary wonders. From the unleavened flatbread to the steamed and baked variations. There were also references to the ox-heart and bear oil savory pastry (牛心熊白饼), a delicacy reserved for noble households in the capital, as well as peach blossom and apricot pistil cookies (桃花杏蕊饼) commonly enjoyed in the cozy taverns of Jiangnan. The manuscript even mentioned a massive sesame wheat-flour flat cake that weighed over five kilograms only sold near the Yangguan Pass.
Yet, the manuscript was not solely a culinary compendium. It also wove a tapestry of diverse characters, picturesque landscapes, and the abbott's own reminiscences of a bygone era that could never be reclaimed. As Shen Shaoguang delved deeper into its pages, her eyes were awash with vivid descriptions that resurrected the flourishing period of the Tang Dynasty.
Shen Shaoguang did not shower the text with empty flattery. Instead, she found herself overcome by the weight of the manuscript's brilliance, with a wistful sigh escaping her lips, she whispered, "How wonderful, how truly wonderful..."
Observing Shen Shaoguang's reaction, Senior Buddhist Nun Yuanjue graced her with a serene smile.
…
On the third day of the new year, Shen Shaoguang proceeded her customary neighborhood rounds, bearing humble gifts, exchanging New Year greetings, and indulging in the delectable new year candies that were generously shared.
The Qiu Household from the Tofu Shop were determined to have Shen Shaoguang over for a New Year's meal. Missus Qiu simmered a young hen together with mountain mushrooms, opting for a simple yet flavorful approach. Unlike Shen Shaoguang’s meticulousness, Missus Qiu didn't fuss over excessive seasonings. The soup was overflowing from the small pot, yet she didn’t stop there and whipped up some more dishes such as fried tofu and steamed mutton.
The elderly grandmother from the Qiu Household kept adding to Shen Shaoguang's bowl, urging her to try each and every dish. "Try this chicken, Miss." "Have some mutton, is it tender enough?" "Miss, try this delicious meat wonton, it's all handmade."...
Shen Indelible was a loyal patron of the Qiu Household's Tofu Shop; Shen Shaoguang had not only supported their business but also shared her expertise in seasoning and expanding their tofu products. From tofu skins to dried firm tofu and soybean oils, she had helped the Qiu family increase their profits significantly. As a gesture of gratitude, the Qiu family decided to express their appreciation during the peaceful time of Chinese New Year.
Despite her unassuming appearance, Mrs. Qiu possessed a silver tongue. "Mother-in-law, let's not kid ourselves! How can my cooking ever be considered 'delicious' when compared to Miss Shen's culinary skills?" She then said to Shen Shaoguang, "Although it’s a bit coarse, I hope you don’t mind it, Miss. No need to be shy, please, eat up."
In order to express her sincere appreciation for Missus Qiu's craftsmanship, Shen Shaoguang indulged in a hearty feast and showered her with effusive praises. Missus Qiu's face lit up with joy, her eyes forming delicate crescents as she smiled.
Having relished a plethora of food, Shen Shaoguang opted for a modest repast in the evening, savoring a humble bowl of millet porridge accompanied by the delectable pickles meticulously prepared by the Princess Yu San.
Princess Yu San's pickled vegetables were always a lavish affair, elegantly presented in dainty dishes, offering an array of choices that surpassed half a dozen. Amongst the selection were pickled napa cabbage, pickled radish, pickled cucumber, and pickled ginger. The marinating techniques varied as well, with some vegetables shredded, others in chunks, and some minced. The marinades ranged from sesame oil to vinegar aging, while some pickles had been immersed in a blend of sesame paste and garlic pulp…
Savoring two bites of each pickle dish, Shen Shaoguang relished every mouthful of her porridge. This simple meal brought a sense of comfort to her bloated stomach, easing any discomfort she had felt before.
She continued this leisurely routine for a few more days, enjoying the relaxation to the point where her muscles felt on the verge of deterioration. All of this finally came to a halt during the sixth day of the lunar month— In this dynasty, the tradition of receiving the God of Wealth on the fifth day of the lunar month did not exist[1]. Most stores remained closed until after this auspicious day, and some even opted to wait until after the Lantern Festival[2] to resume business.
Shen Shaoguang and the others meticulously cleaned every nook and cranny of their store. As the day dawned, they set off vibrant firecrackers at the entrance, and just like that, Shen Indelible was ready to welcome the new year with open arms.
As if on cue, their regular patrons spotted the reopened tavern and soon made their way over.
Shen Shaoguang warmly greeted them with a resplendent New Year's salutation, and the diners returned the sentiment while expressing their delight at being back at Shen Indelible, "I have indeed missed the menu offered Shen Indelible. I attended a New Year's dinner yesterday and encountered a lackluster hot pot that paled in comparison to the delectable fare served here."
"Recently, I've been indulging in all sorts of hearty meats and fish, but my taste buds still long for Sir Yu San's sweet and sour cabbage."
Some patrons even brought their own New Year's wine that they had originally planned to enjoy during their festive meals. They confidently ordered classic dishes such as 'Cornelian Meat', 'Lion's Head', 'Crispy Fried Chicken', 'Lotus Meat', and 'Eight Treasure Tofu'. Accompanied by a jug of freshly fermented green-foamed wine and two steamers of Sharpened Mutton Jade, the guests savored every bite of the long-awaited and delicious food.
The grand reopening day was abuzz with activity, bustling with eager customers. It was not until evening that Shen Shaoguang was given an opportunity to cut her rensheng ornament[3].
The opulent celebration of ‘Renri[3]’ on the seventh day of the lunar month had gradually waned in subsequent generations, as it no longer held the status of a national holiday. However, even in this era, it remained an important ceremonial affair.
The so-called ‘Renri’ was believed to have its roots in the legend of Nüwa's divine creation of mankind. According to ancient tales, Goddess Nüwa bestowed the world with the gift of chickens on the first day of the lunar month, followed by the creation of dogs on the second. Subsequently, she created the existence of boars, sheep, cows, and horses. It was on the seventh day, when the Goddess Nüwa had amassed a wealth of wisdom and expertise, that she breathed life into the intelligent beings now known as humans. Thus, the seventh day of the lunar month became forever enshrined as the revered ‘Renri’.
During Renri, the most favored pastime for the people was to take gold leaf, delicate silk, or vibrant colored paper, then deftly cut, fold, or bind them into an array of lively decorations. These rensheng would then be used to adorn screens, windows, or even worn as ornate headpieces.
Within the palace, there was a pronounced appreciation for these exquisite and beautifully crafted rensheng. Each year, the palace maids would conjure up a plethora of new styles, not only to showcase their craftsmanship but also with the hope of garnering favor from the noble ranks. It also served as a means to while away the hours.
Shen Shaoguang had invested her skill points primarily into culinary pursuits, with any remnants allocated to bolster her literary abilities. As a result, she wasn't particularly adept at traditional women's needlework and embroidery. However, her prowess in paper-cutting was undeniable. Shen Shaoguang held firm to the belief that she possessed a pair of capable hands; her perceived lack of proficiency in needlework was simply a matter of scarce practice time.
Back in her days at the imperial palace, Shen Shaoguang's paper-cut creations depicting an 'abundant harvest of all food crops' and a 'bountiful vegetable harvest' were chosen as door decorations for the inner palace dining rooms. Those who came to pick up their meals couldn't help but express their admiration at the sight.
While most maids' rensheng cuttings featured dainty flowers and petite figures, Shen Shaoguang's creations were of a notably larger scale. Not only were they sizable, but they were also intricately detailed and impressively complex. Her harvest-themed cutout featured no less than twenty different types of fruits and vegetables, each carefully arranged in harmonious compositions. Grapes nestled near pears, watermelons shared space with cherries—every element was meticulously balanced, resulting in a display of remarkable precision.
The ability to craft such intricate patterns was a testament to the art classes she had once attended. After finalizing the composition, the next step was the painstaking process of carving. Surprisingly, the techniques involved in cutting and carving weren't overly difficult to grasp.
Shen Shaoguang began by cutting out a few simple flowers, using them as a warm-up exercise. With A’Yuan beside her, a playful impulse overtook her, prompting her to swiftly craft a round figure with a distinctive double-ringed hairstyle, adopting a sassy hands-on-hip pose.
A’Yuan was utterly enchanted, unable to tear her gaze away. She cradled the paper-cutting delicately, murmuring, "It's so beautiful... it's so beautiful..."
Both Yu San and A’Chang were taken aback by Shen Shaoguang's unexpected skill. Yu San picked up the lotus that Shen Shaoguang had just fashioned and looked at her in astonishment. "Who would have thought you had this hidden talent?"
A’Chang chimed in with a chuckle, "I never knew that Miss was so skillful."
A’Yuan lifted her head from the intricately crafted rensheng ornament and declared matter-of-factly, "This is child's play! Miss can do anything, she's practically omnipotent!"
A’Yuan's unwavering belief only compounded Shen Shaoguang's sense of responsibility. Just as she was about to offer a modest explanation, Yu San interjected with a sly smirk, "Of course she's omnipotent. Even the flag outside is shedding tears."
Shen Shaoguang: "..."
A’Chang couldn't help but snicker under his breath.
A’Yuan, now filled with righteous indignation, retorted, "What's wrong with the flag? What's wrong with it? As long as it can flutter, that's good enough, isn't it?"
Witnessing her fervent fan's unwavering support, Shen Shaoguang decided to forgo any further explanations and resumed her work on the 'abundant harvest' stencil, her smile undiminished.
Given her familiarity with this style and the fact that she had spent the relaxed first week of the new year laboring over the composition, all that remained was the meticulous task of cutting out the intricate details.
However, even with this head start, she anticipated working well into the night to complete the project. Despite Shen Shaoguang's insistence that A’Yuan need not keep her company, A’Yuan remained a steadfast supporter. She sat on the bed, wrapped in a quilt, watching Shen Shaoguang's every careful snip, determined to stay awake until her eyes could no longer bear the weight, eventually resting against the pillow.
The very next morning, A’Yuan was adamant about displaying the exquisite rensheng rather than sitting down for breakfast.
Turning to Shen Shaoguang, she inquired, "Where should we put it?"
With a smile, Shen Shaoguang suggested, "Let's place it on the outer wall. It's the same spot where one of our diners recently posted a missing dog flier, and where Miss Chu sought assistance in her search for someone."
"Alright!"
The smaller flowers, buds, and circular cutouts adorned the windows and small partition screens, but the plump girl rensheng was conspicuously absent.
The bold, fiery red paper cutting demanded attention. Passersby couldn't help but do a double-take, drawn in by its vibrant allure. It was a subtle beckoning, a siren call that announced Shen Indelible Tavern's opening. Thoughts of delectable dishes began to dance in their minds, an irresistible temptation that few could resist. Those who hadn't sampled Shen Indelible's delights in the days around the new year suddenly found themselves yearning for a taste.
If the patrons from yesterday were considered fervent admirers of Shen Indelible Tavern, today heralded the return of its cherished regulars. The tavern hummed with activity once again.
Incoming Cloud Tavern remained closed in the early days of the New Year. It was a common practice, given that most preferred to host guests at home during this festive time. It typically opened its doors after the tenth day of the New Year. Shopkeeper Feng idly strolled through the Lane, and quickly took notice of the vibrant red persimmons, luscious loquats, and massive watermelons adorning the wall of Shen Indelible Tavern. He observed the sporadic flow of customers in and out of the establishment and, with a knowing shake of his head, he continued on his way.
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The author has something to say: Dear readers, please don’t question our MC’s mystical talent at paper-cutting—just enjoy the story!
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Footnotes:
[1] God of Wealth - The fifth day of the first lunar month is considered to be the birthday of the God of Wealth. Thus, on this day, receiving the auspicious deity becomes the most important task. On the night before, every household prepares a feast to celebrate it. With a white face and long hair, he holds a treasure pot in hands, giving rise to the saying “bringing wealth and treasure.” During the Spring Festival, nearly every Chinese household pastes his portrait on the main hall－a prayer for good fortune.
Beijing’s shops usually greet the God of Fortune on the day and reopen the next day. In the past, they set off firecrackers, rattled abacuses, and struck the plate of steelyard with the beam of the steelyard to create a dynamic atmosphere ready for reopening. Now, to ensure good air quality and protect the environment, they don’t set off firecrackers, but the business reopens on the sixth day of the first lunar month.
Source: https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-Chinese-tradition-on-the-fifth-day-of-the-first-lunar-month
[2] Lantern Festival - The Lantern Festival, also called Shangyuan Festival, is a Chinese traditional festival celebrated on the fifteenth day of the first month in the lunisolar Chinese calendar, during the full moon.
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lantern_Festival
[3] Renri - (人日) - Renri or Human Day or Everyone's Birthday is the 7th day of Zhengyue, the first month in the traditional Chinese calendar. According to Chinese customs, Renri was the day human beings were created. It is celebrated not only in China, but also in the surrounding region influenced by Chinese culture. According to legend, the custom dates back to the Han dynasty, and gained importance after the Three Kingdoms period and Jin dynasty. Ancient Chinese had a tradition of wearing head ornaments called rensheng (人勝), which were made of ribbon or gold and represented humans. People also climbed mountains and composed poems. Emperors after the Tang dynasty granted ribbon rensheng to their subjects and held festivities with them. If there were good weather on Renri, it was considered that people would have a year of peace and prosperity.
Foods:
tofu skins https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpxJ0e6oKvo
For those curious, you can purchase this on amazon, it’s a slightly chewy texture, almost like a firm pasta. Cook it in soup, or stir fry, it’s really yummy 🤤🤤
dried firm tofu (aka dougan) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuLUcH5XMDk
pickled napa cabbage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7diww1q8SQ
pickled cucumber https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EACEWzcq_w0
pickled ginger https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCYsajn1NIs