Chang’an Small Restaurant Chapter 25 (Part 1)
Translated by Pure
Chapter 25.1 Coming to Propose Marriage
The autumn winds aflutter, tis the season to gormandize fish and crab.
Elegant and cultured people are particular to the selection of ‘nostalgic’ perch and bass, but such had no effect on Shen Shaoguang, who brought back two catfish that were more than two feet long each.
Catfish wasn’t an expensive commodity, and it was incomparable with mandarin fish (Chinese perch), carp, white Amur bream, or perch. Catfish were once described to be ‘the most obstreperous and mindless[1]’, and not for the dainty. However, for Shen Shaoguang, the proprietress of a small street shop, there was no need for her to care if it was ‘dainty’ enough or not.
As carnivorous fish, catfish had a strong vitality. It was still flapping its body after being out of the water for a while. If one wasn’t careful, their legs would receive a painful hit from their tail— just based on this temperament, it was indeed a bit ‘obstreperous and mindless’.
Shen Shaoguang was a little worried, unsure how to deal with them in a bit; she couldn't help but miss the fish markets in her previous life that not only helped kill, but also cleaned and sliced fish on request.
Missus Li, the cloth store owner next door, was a little surprised when she saw the fish that Shen Shaoguang was carrying, "That catfish is really fat! Unfortunately dishes made with that fish always come out pungent and fishy!" Then she laughed, "Though Miss Shen is skillful, I’m sure you can make it work!"
Shen Shaoguang generously replied, "While cooking, add some wine and ginger and it'll remove the smell."
Missus Li was a fan of Shen Shaoguang's culinary skills. After listening to Shen Shaoguang's words, she immediately asked, "What type of wine and how much exactly?"
Shen Shaoguang stopped walking and switched holding the fish to her other hand. The two goods were quite heavy, causing her hand to turn red. Then she patiently instructed Missus Li on how to cook catfish, "The black films in its belly have to be thoroughly cleaned", "Ginger and wine are very much necessary", "Some vinegar can also remove the fishy smell, and will speed up the cooking process"...
Missus Li kept nodding. Pity that she was illiterate, otherwise she would have definitely jotted this down in a notebook.
After her mini lecture with Missus Li, Shen Shaoguang took the two fish to the small alley behind her eatery.
Aware that Shen Shaoguang didn’t know how to kill fish, A’Yuan took a wooden stick and said, "I'll do it!"
Shen Shaoguang hurriedly got up and gave way to her hero.
A’Yuan held down the fish and hit its head with the wooden stick.
Watching ‘Second Brother Wu pulverizing the white tiger[2]’, and recalling how she single handedly dragged two drunk men, Shen Shaoguang hurriedly shouted, "Don't smash it completely!"
A’Yuan hastened to hold back her strength, but the catfish was slippery, and with a burst of its remaining energy, it jumped over A’Yuan's head. Both Shen Shaoguang and A’Yuan were startled.
However, they quickly recovered and started to laugh.
Shen Shaoguang smiled, "Forget it. Just leave these two here, I don't believe it’ll remain alive for long without water!"
A’Yuan was not as cowardly as Shen Shaoguang, so she quickly adjusted herself and pressed the fish firmly on the limestone board that was next to the water tank. After she hit it twice on the head with the wooden stick, the fish stopped moving completely.
Shen Shaoguang gave A’Yuan a thumbs up while the latter smiled triumphantly and took care of the second catfish.
"Good job! Today’s fish heads belong to you!" Shen Shaoguang laughed. Both of them loved to eat fish heads, so A’Yuan was naturally elated.
…
Catfish was fatty and had succulent meat, but lacked redolence and extruded a ‘muddy’ and fishy aroma, so the most suitable cooking method was for it to be braised.
Shen Shaoguang covered the fish that A’Yuan butcher with cornstarch, and then pan fried the fish with some sugar. After it turned a light golden yellow, in the same pan, she added scallion, ginger, sichuan peppercorn, cardamom, dill seeds. Once the spices were warmed and emitting a fragrant smell, cooking wine, soy extract[3], and vinaigrette... thick in oil and heavy in sauce, a simple and crude home-cooked braised fish.
She then cut a whole eggplant into equal chunks, this was to be added into the pot after the dish was about done. This method was taught to her by one of her neighbors whose hometown was in the northeast, and as he quotes— ‘Catfish stewed with eggplant is a feast, and can kill an elderly as he overeats[4].’
This neighbor was a serious foodie, his biggest hobby was to drive to the forest in summer to catch cicadas, and fry them as a snack...
She wasn’t sure this catfish and eggplant dish would kill the elders of Tang Dynasty, but its fragrance was so strong that it attracted an unexpected guest.
"Are you stewing fish? I smelled it as soon as I passed your door."
Shen Shaoguang smiled, "Halting at its aroma, staying for its flavor." Sanniang could also be considered her intermediary.
In fact, even if her eatery wasn’t emitting a tempting aroma, Lu Sanniang would occasionally come to visit her and make a couple sarcastic remarks towards Shen Shaoguang. Even though she could never outwit her, Lu Sanniang never seemed to grow tired of it. Shen Shaoguang at times would inwardly question if Lu Sanniang had a masochistic streak.
It was not only Lu Sanniang who came here after smelling the aroma, but also two regular customers. They were only passing by, but specifically came in to ask, "Are you preparing fish today?"
Shen Shaoguang only bought two fish in total, how could she have enough to sell? There was no fish shop in this Lane; today it was purely a coincidence. Presumably the person she had bought the catfish from had caught or fished it himself, but without a guarantee of a continuous supply of fish, it was impossible for her to introduce it as a new dish.
"It's not a new dish. If you would like to try some, then when you come during the evening, we can give you a bowl on the house." Shen Shaoguang beautifully executed the use of phatic expression.
The diner quickly realized that the fish was her private meal, so he refused with a smile, "Oh there is no need! I have spoken without thinking," and then sincerely suggested, "Miss ought to consider serving some fish dishes."
Shen Shaoguang thanked him for his understanding and feedback. The guest then asked if there was still Cornelian Meat available during the evening, he seemed to want to have a few drinks here later.
After the guests left, Lu Sanniang tsk’ed twice and said, "Missy, you are glib as always!"
Shen Shaoguang shook her head and sighed, "I didn't have a choice, can’t help it if I was born gifted."
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Footnotes:
[1] ‘the most obstreperous and mindless’ - From the poem <Spectating the Liberation of Fish Song> 《观放鱼歌》, written by Lu Tong, a poet of the Tang Dynasty. Basically, this poem classifies fish by personality and traits. There's no English translation found. Sorry >.<
[2] Second Brother Wu pulverizing the white tiger - Wu Song (武松), also known as Second Brother Wu (武二郎), is a legendary hero recounted since the 13th century; and one of the well-known fictional characters in the Water Margin, one of the Four Great Classic Novels in Chinese literature. Basically in one part of the story he disregards a waiter's warnings thinking it was a hoax to make him stay an extra night at an inn and encounters a tiger over the hill. He manages to wrestle it down and beat it up with his fist, but then just to make sure it was dead, he continuously hits it with his quarterstaff. Here's the translation of that part of the story- https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/27590638
[3] soy extract 清酱 - is liquid condiment brewed from beans, wheat, and bran. The color is reddish brown, with a unique sauce aroma, delicious taste, and helps to stimulate appetite. It's the condiment used by the ancient Chinese emperors. It's later more famous name of 'soy sauce(酱油)' was only coined during the Song Dynasty.
[4] ‘Catfish stewed with eggplant is a feast, and can kill an elderly as he overeats’ (鲶鱼炖茄子，撑死老爷子) - Yeah that's an actual saying haha. It's much funnier in Chinese, but its meaning is that eggplant and catfish is a delicious combination. The flavors of the fish will seep into the eggplant, and because both are super soft, it's very suitable for the elderly who have bad teeth.
Braised catfish and eggplant https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5Dys0UmboE